February - March 2002 Edition

Remembering Omars   by Lloyd Dorfman   For the longest time I was perplexed by the big old house, what it was and why the low profile. As I write this, I've kept the car engine running in the driveway and my mind on cruise control so as to bring you an un-obstructed view of my two experiences at this Fair Lawn landmark.   Back in 1988 an old girlfriend had found me in Fair Lawn where I was renting one of those illegal sub basement walkdown apartments in Radburn. A cozy little hideaway or so, I thought, that only a few had known about and even less had visited. It was so small that if I wanted to jump out a window and kill myself, I'd have to take out the air conditioner and jump UP to street level. I'm guessing that one of my old high school pals ratted me out and gave "Donna", YO DONNA!, my phone number.   At that particular point in my life, the last thing I wanted to do was see an old girlfriend when all the new ones were just figuring out where I was living. She had coffee jitters and had just quit smoking on top of an already hyper/hostile personality to begin with. There was NO WAY I was going get out of meeting her for dinner but, the alternative of having her at my place was completely out of the question. Where could I meet her where no one would know me, no one would talk to me and I could blend and escape again un-noticed? You've all been here before right?   OMARS! PERFECT!, the window shades were always drawn, there were never any cars there and wether or not you thought it was a restaurant, bordello, social club or "Laundromat", so to speak, most peoples instincts told them to just "move on" Not me however, I've modeled my life on moving in opposites of the norm…so, OMARS at 8:00 PM for me and my ex.   Arriving early to circumvent an argument that even old relationships can still hang on to and finely hone to perfection, SHE WAS LATE! The parking lot was empty less that gray Lincoln Continental with the white landau roof that was starting to take root right there on the pavement. On her arrival, we walked in and a HUSHHHHHHH fell over the room.. The place was empty except one booth where a dozen guys were playing cards and having drinks and cigars. Their heads, turning in near perfect timing to our entrance caused me to nearly drop a London Broil right there in my shorts. Everything was bright red, I mean RED, like a fire engine red with some white criss cross wood panels and maintenance free vines draped across the top. It looked like a thousand cheap tuxedos exploded in there. Lots of guys named Paulie eat here I bet…Of course, the Maitre' D was the guy sitting at the booth next to the wall causing everyone to have to get up and interrupt the game so he could get out.   "Table for two please - just drinks" , I'm not as perceptive as the average tree stump but I figured this would be best. We had drinks, (2, one each), I looked at my watch and said with a slow yawn, "wow!, 8:45 already! ?" The evening ended and by the way, so did any more dates with Donna…, mission accomplished, thank you OMARS!   My second experience, years later, was great and I expect that making a reservation this time was a good start. It was my cousins birthday this past fall and he, like me, moves in polar opposites to the rest of the world and selected OMARS as his restaurant of choice. Again, I got there early and this time there were no cars in the lot. It would have been a good time to mow the lawn that was growing through the cracks there.  Our reservation was for 8:00 PM and at 7:55 that Lincoln Continental with the white landau roof came sputtering in, knocking down the growth that was blocking the way to the parking spot.   Our party of eight was greeted by a gentlemen named Giorgio if I recall. A very large red haired Italian man whose hands were so huge that I felt like a dainty princess on a receiving line when we shook. He explained that he was our Maitre' D and would show us to our table, the only one set up and the only one in the room in fact. We sat down while Giorgio sprinted over to the eight track player and punched up some Johnnie Roselli tunes. Moments later our waiter came over. "Good evening, my name is Giorgio, can I get you some drinks?" Uncanny resemblance to the Maitre' D I thought……Super friendly and talkative guy, we ordered up some drinks and Giorgio mentioned that our entree orders would be taken momentarily. True to his word, Giorgio came out moments later with his shirt sleeves rolled up and an apron over his clothing. "I'll be your chef this evening, may I tell you about some of our specials?" I think the specials were anything in the fridge and I'm imagining that in the fridge might be some leftovers like a guy named Dominick for leaving a lousy tip or Anthony ,"SQUEAK", Mataranzano. A cheapskate who probably got whacked for bringing over some wine in a screw top bottle.   After reciting the specials and taking our selections, Giorgio disappeared into the kitchen where seconds later the sounds of clanging, banging and hammering filtered into the dining room. Not only was Giorgio the Maitre' D, bartender, waiter and chef but, he pounds his own meat too and I don't mean to sound like a wise guy…. Now I'm thinkin', he may be all of these things but, can he deliver? Yes he can! All eight entrees came out in one trip! It was like watching the Ed Sullivan Show where those guys would spin a bunch of plates on sticks. The food was outstanding as were the desserts and coffee! I would recommend the chicken picatta but…….   What made this dinner really cool was that Giorgio answered all of those questions that had been nagging at me all these years about OMARS. He told us the history and about the family and did so with excitement and a bit of sorrow as well when the OMARS story reached the part about closing its doors after an impressive span of time. If progress means a new bank for Fair Lawn on the site of OMARS then, would it be wrong to ask the manager there to offer a plate of pasta putanesca with every checking account that is opened there? Arrivaderci' Omars! See Article on Omars From Our Archives Lloyd's Columns in the Fair Lawn News Archives   Facilitating Public Debate (December 2001)   Reacting To Terrorism (October 2001)   Vacationing at the Dentist (August 2001)     What Do You Think?: Send an e- mail to editor@fairlawnnews.com or post a message on the Fair Lawn News Discussion Forum.